January 2009

Japan Rocks! or Two Cities and a Ryokan (Part One)

Nine days, a Japan Rail Pass and a stomach full of anticipation.

Let's not beat about the bush: I'm in Japan to eat. On this — my first — trip to this First World Asian nation, I'm not aiming for any Michelin star restaurants but rather to reinforce my belief that even the normal restaurants serve good meals.

By pure luck, I've booked myself into Oaks Shin, a business class hotel a minute's walk from a subway station on the Midosuji line. This line is the central artery leading to all the places in Osaka that we want to visit. One thing about Japanese hotels — at least those we booked this trip — they really stick to their check-in times. On the average, check-in times are 3pm.

One need never go hungry in Japan...just head to the food halls (in the basements) of department stores such as Hanshin, Hankyu, Daimaru and Takashimaya, and you'll be floored by the range of food on display. For something more substantial, these department stores also have a restaurant floor where you'll find wallet-friendly (mostly) family-style restaurants.

Not many restaurants will have English menus but we've found that a sheepish expression and much pointing at the fake food on display will take us far.

One of the best meals we had in Japan was at the Sh'un Kushiage & Wine at the Swissôtel Nankai. Kushiage (fried food on skewers) is one of the traditional Osaka foods, it's just that at this restaurant — a Wine Spectator Grand Award winner no less — you get it at a high level with fantastic ambience. To celebrate the start of what we felt would be a fantastic trip, we decided to splash out on a Bollinger Special Cuvée Brut NV, as you do.

The highlights of that tasting menu were: two different balsamic sprays for the bread, the sweet-as-nectar cherry tomatoes (what is it about Japanese fruit and vegetables that makes them grow so wonderful in flavour?), the most tasty radish soup in the world, the freshest sashimi, the delectable oyster kushiage and the black udon in yuzu-accented broth — goodness, it's making me hungry just reminiscing about it!

Osaka Castle is a must-visit, not because of the museum it's become, but rather the approach to it through the surrounding gardenscape is quite simply breathtaking with the moat of pink algae and ducks. Here is where we ticked off one item on the must-eat list — takoyaki — just because there was a stall outside the castle.

The shopping area of Shinsaibashi not only has Daimaru and Sogo department stores but also hundreds of little shops going off in all directions. This was where I bought a cow skin leather long wallet for a princely sum (the beginning of the end of my resolve NOT to shop).

For neon action, Dotonburi is the place to head for — bright lights and young people out in force make this entertainment district lively long into the night. We joined the long queues for okonomiyaki (a pancake with toppings), teppanyaki pig stomach and grilled kani (crab) legs. – anne loh

(to be continued)