February 2009

Japan Rocks! Or Two Cities and a Ryokan (Part Three)

Nine days, a Japan Rail Pass and a stomach full of anticipation

The approach by Shinkansen into Tokyo by Kobe allowed us that all impressive view of the snow-capped Mt Fuji that you see in tourist brochures. Our thought was: wow, it's not Photoshop!

We have split our remaining days in Japan between the more happening Shunjuku and the sedate Asakusa (pronounced a-sak-sa, apparently). We wanted to experience New Year's Eve the Japanese way and were advised that a shrine — in particular, the Meiji Jinggu — is the best choice. Uncertain about what to expect, we started making our way there after dinner and arrived at ten-plus. People are also starting to arrive, but mostly young people, with no one in traditional dress!

While walking in, we passed by numerous police, including one riot vehicle. At this point, we were wondering whether we should start getting prepared to see a chaotic scene. We finally reached the end of the road where a row of stern looking policemen have set themselves up as a human barrier. We prepared to wait. Although there were numerous announcements in Japanese, and scouts and priests walking behind the temple screen, we had no idea what to expect at our first in-shrine Japanese New Year count-down. The media with their cameras were out in force, a couple of helicopters hovered and a blimp floated by.

As countdown started, the police human barrier put on their riot helmets and squatted...which was when we went: uh oh. Then...at 0, everyone flung coins into the temple and then made way for the people behind. Obviously, the policemen just don't want to get hit in the face by pieces of flying change! There was an open-air food market on the way out to the subway station but we were so tired out by the anticipation and anti-climax of the count-down that we decided to call it a night.

Having become shrine veterans, we visited the Asakusa Shrine where it seems half of Tokyo have also come to pray for the new year. There were food stalls galore, all the restaurants were open and we also patronised the shops.

The other districts that we decided to visit also impressed us. Harajuku for the in-your-face youthful vibe, Roppongi Hills for the shopping, Ueno for the bazaar, and Ginza for the brand-name window shopping. The constant though is the fabulous jaw-dropping food halls and the good Japanese food. I think we deserve a pat on the back for staying within our food budget — though we charged our cards for purchases (out of sight, out of mind!) — and always cannily choosing the right restaurants to step into.

We can't wait to return! - anne loh

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