May 2010

So French...

A catch-up dinner at Le Bistrot du Sommelier turned into a rare occasion where I vowed never to return.

Le Bistrot du Sommelier's concept has always been one that I instinctively support — home-cooked sincere fare in an intimate restaurant run by people who are passionate about what they do. And when I heard that Patrick Heuberger has left Au Petit Salut for Le Bistrot, I made a mental note to visit. So you can imagine my sense of anticipation as I made my way past the dinky bars and cafes that line Prinsep Street towards what I expected to be a homely Gallic evening. Truth be told, the food was not bad: we ordered the garbure (a homestyle vegetable soup with chicken dumplings), an endive salad with walnut dressing, the braised beef cheeks, a steak frites (the fries were brilliant!) and profiteroles with vanilla ice cream. While it perplexed me that a place run by a sommelier (in name and in fact) would only have two red wines by the glass (a Burgundy and a Costières de Nîmes), still it did not mar my evening too much. What did though, was being presented with the bill after dessert has been cleared and with still 45ml of wine left in my glass, and being told that they need the table. I've had better hospitality in Paris. - anne loh