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August 2010

A cruise in tıme

Step onboard the Pasig Ferry and rediscover Manila along the banks of one of the Philippines’ most historical rivers

WORDS JENNILYN Q SALVADOR
PHOTO EDGAR ALAN ZETA YAP

 

Manila's Pasig River was once an important means of transportation as well as the main centre of economic activity in pre-colonial times. But after World War II, mass urbanisation coupled with pollution resulted in the river being practically abandoned. Over recent years, however, conscious efforts have been made to slowly bring it back to life.

A good example is the Pasig River Ferry Service. Running from Barangay Pinagbuhatan to Intramuros, it’s a comfortable air-conditioned way to reach Manila’s sights. With a total of 14 stations, you can hop off any time to check out an interesting part of the city.

First stop is Binondo established in the late 1500s by Spanish Governor Luis Pérez Dasmariñas as a permanent settlement for sangleys (Chinese immigrants) who were converted to Catholicism. Today the area still thrives as a commercial hub for the tsinoys (Chinese-Filipino community), featuring local eateries and stores selling lucky charms and medicinal herbs.

At Escolta station, you’re immediately greeted by a huge archway marking the entrance to Binondo. Once there, it’s quite easy to lose half a day or more taking in the eclectic mix of things to see in the area, so make sure you’re wearing comfortable shoes.

Seng Guan Temple is touted as one of the most beautiful Buddhist temples in the Philippines. In keeping with other Buddhist places of worship, its crown of stupas is accentuated by spacious halls and a mural depicting the life of Buddha. Another impressive architectural structure that shouldn’t be missed is the Binondo Church, which was first built by Dominican priests in 1596. One of the oldest Catholic churches in the country, it is also called Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz, named after the first ever Filipino to be canonised as a saint.

To flex your muscles, head to Carvajal Street for a bit of grocery shopping. It looks more like a narrow alley than an actual street, but it holds a wide array of food finds including fresh fruit and vegetables, seafood, and a host of ingredients to make Chinese dishes — all at very affordable prices. If you still have space in your shopping bags — and some cash to spare — go to Ongpin Street. Aside from a long string of other merchandise like Chinese fireworks and hardware materials, Ongpin is famous for its wide selection of good jewellery shops.

Next stop is San Miguel, a middle-class residential neighbourhood that is often overlooked. Home to the Malacañang Palace, the country’s highest seat of power in the Philippines, this deceptively modest district has had more than its fair share of influence and power for centuries. Founded in the 1700s as one of the first extramuros (outside Intramuros or literally “outside the walls”) quarters, it became the address of summer mansions built by the most affluent people during that time.

To get there, hop off at Quiapo station, then take a jeepney with the signage “San Miguel”. The 10-15 minute jeepney ride is bound to be a striking contrast to the noticeably quiet atmosphere in the area. There are several pedicabs (bicycles with sidecar) you can take, but to really get a feel of this once-elite district, it’s recommended to go on foot.

A number of century-old houses still stand, but perhaps the most well-preserved is the Legarda Mansion. Built in 1937, it has been converted into a family museum and fine-dining restaurant called La Cocina de Tita Moning, where heirloom recipes of the Legardas are served. And while the first brewery in the country, San Miguel Brewery, is no longer there, you can sample a bottle of this nationally famous drop from any convenience store.

There is probably no building more associated with San Miguel than Malacañang Palace. The official residence and business address of the Philippine president, it features an impressive museum which pays tribute to the former presidents of the country.

There are also a few churches in San Miguel worth visiting. If you’ve only got time for two, Ivan Man Dy of Old Manila Walks recommends the San Beda Church and San Sebastian Church. The former was built in the mid ’20s and has an interior studded with gorgeous paintings, plus tranquil gardens on both sides. The latter is a 20th-century masterpiece of neo-gothic architecture. The whole church was prefabricated in Europe and shipped aboard eight ships where it was reassembled in Manila (like Lego blocks) to become the only all-steel church in the country.

Must-visit eateries

Walked up an appetite? Ivan Man Dy of Old Manila Walks recommends these restaurants in Binondo:

Cafe Mezzanine serves Hokkien-style favourites such as kiampeng rice (rice cooked in pork stew) and Filipino breakfasts like tapsilog (cured meat, garlic-fried rice and fried egg).

Quick Snack also serves traditional Hokkien-style favourites. Lo-bihon (noodles), ku-chay-ah (chives pastry) as well as owa-chien (oyster cakes) tops my must-eat list.

President Tea House – a restaurant serving Cantonese and Hokkien banquet-style dishes.

Take Me There

PASIG RIVER FERRY SERVICE
Operates Monday to Saturday Tel: +63 (2) 244 2006 (Escolta station), www.prrc.com.ph

CAFE MEZZANINE
Cnr Ongpin and Yuchengco Sts, Binondo, tel: +63(2) 242 9759

QUICK SNACK
Carvajal St, Binondo, tel: +63 (2) 242 9572

PRESIDENT TEA HOUSE
809 Salazar St, Binondo, tel: +63 (2) 243 9079

LA COCINA DE TITA MONING
315 San Rafael St, San Miguel, tel: +63(2) 734 2146, www.lacocinadetitamoning.com

OLD MANILA WALKS
www.oldmanilawalks.com

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