July 2009

A Date With Darwin

Before rushing off to the outback, linger a little in Darwin — this far-flung northern outpost has a host of great experiences to make for a memorable getaway

A Date With Darwin

WORDS CORMAC HANRAHAN

Home to more than 50 different ethnic groups and with the highest population of indigenous Australians in the country, Darwin is one of the most diverse cities in the world. And with everything from markets and museums to harbour cruises and watering holes of the drinking and swimming kind, the city of Darwin is more than just a pitstop before an outback adventure — it’s a destination unto itself. Here are seven great ways to help you discover the real Darwin.

The World Bazaar
Crack! A five-inch piece of plaited twine breaks the sound barrier with a sonic boom. Attached to the end of the twine is six feet of plaited kangaroo leather fixed to a wooden handle.

On the end of the handle is Mick Denigan, master leather craftsman and Australia’s whip-crack extraordinaire.

A huge Indiana Jones fan since childhood, I’m drawn to the whip like the proverbial moth to a flame. Left hand on hip, right hand swirling overhead, Mick’s expert voice instructs off to my side, “that’s it, keep it moving and when the handle gets behind your left ear, snap it across the front of your body”.

People are watching, my arm begins to tire and the whip is losing momentum. In place of a triumphant crack, however, is the collective wince from the crowd as I manage only to wrap the leather plait around my own head.

I buy a whip regardless and walk a few paces through the crowd to where people tap and nod to the stirring primal drone of a didgeridoo, and stop at food stalls offering the flavours of Africa, Asia, Europe and SouThamerica. Still others are browsing the 190-odd craft stalls selling homemade jewellery, clothing and craft.

I’m at Mindil Market, possibly the best unofficial celebration of multiculturalism in Australia. Do what the locals do — bring a picnic rug then choose dinner from one of the many food stands so you can enjoy a sunset feast on the adjacent grass area facing west. The market runs on Thursday and Sunday evenings from April until October.

Beers with a Sea Breeze
It’s the end of a hot blue-sky day in Darwin. The smell of salt comes on a gentle breeze as the sun sinks into a mauve sea. You take your place under the palms with uninterrupted ocean views at what must be one of the best beer gardens in Australia — the Darwin Ski Club, a casual meeting, eating and drinking spot 15 minutes from the centre of town.

Based firmly on the “keep it simple” principle, this recreational and social venue for the members and guests of the Water Ski Association offers filling meals at good prices, cold beer and a fantastic vista.

No one goes to the club for a fancy meal — there are expensive restaurants in town for that. They go because it’s like having a picnic with a bar handy, with someone else to tidy up. Plus, entry is free and children are welcome (shoes are optional). Cheers to that.

History Comes Alive
If history and culture are your thing, visit the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory and its showpiece exhibition about the whopping disaster that was Cyclone Tracy.

Brilliant in its re-creative powers, the exhibition has two main purposes: to underscore the lack of preparedness of the populous; and convey the severity of Tracy itself and the destruction that followed.

In one part, a typical lounge room from the era is recreated right down to the rattan furniture and brown vinyl coverings. A radio with the dial set to ABC National provides the “sounds of summer 1974” interspersed with relaxed warnings about “bad weather” on the way.

The exhibition is cleverly divided into before and after. To get from one to the other visitors pass through a sound booth. Inside, the booth is pitch dark — like much of Darwin during the night of Tracy — and you are accompanied by an actual recording from the night with the sound of thousands of sheets of corrugated iron being scraped along the ground in excess of 200km/h.

Listening to the ferocity of the cyclone in the blackness of the sound booth, captions from the exhibition such as “houses exploded off their stilts” begin to make some sort of sense.

Billabong Oasis
Crocodile. The word is on every warning sign, park notice board and Northern Territory visitor’s mind. They are a real and ever-present danger. Combine hot weather and inviting watering holes with crocodiles and you have a recipe for frustration.

Berry Springs however, is largely the exception to the rule. A naturally occurring series of interconnecting pools filled with clear fresh water makes a perfect place for a cooling dip. Swift flowing streams run between the pools allowing you to drift and glide with the current from one to the next, with pandanus leaves shading you.

During World War II, Berry Springs was part of a Rest and Recreation Camp set up by the armed forces for the 100,000 personnel based in the area. Today, it’s a popular day trip for local families who throng here on weekends to enjoy the picnic and barbecue facilities dotted along the banks.

While chances of a crocodile present at Berry Springs is low (especially in the dry season May to November), one must always exercise caution and obey any signage. The pools may be closed during the wet season (October to April) when conditions are considered unsafe.

Sail Away
There are many great ways to spend a sunset in Darwin. The most popular is at Mindil Beach, where visitors and locals find a patch of sand to watch the remains of the day melt into the sea. But of all my magic sunsets, a favourite has to be the one aboard a chartered sailboat on Darwin Harbour, which departs from Darwin Wharf Precinct.

I sit out on the catamaran’s tramp with a group of friends, tacking and chatting into a light wind, as the deep green harbour waters raced silently beneath. With navigation safely in the captain’s hands, surrounded by water and driven by wind, there is nothing more to do than take in the peace and quiet of the mangrove-fringed harbour watching Port Darwin race by, with a cool drink in hand.

Daymirri II catamaran carries up to 12 passengers and its sunset cruise is three hours. Snacks are provided although cruises with dinner are also available.

DATES TO REMEMBER

19 July Darwin Beer Can Regatta This raucous race is an annual family event, with race participants required to build boats out of beer or soft drink cans. Expect plenty of mayhem.

13–30 August Darwin Festival Indigenous, South-East Asian and Pacific cultures are featured on the world-class program that includes dance, theatre, film, comedy and visual arts. There are also workshops, free outdoor events and fabulous international cuisines to savour.

FIND IT

Mindil Market
GilruThave, Mindil Beach, tel: +61 (8) 8981 3454  

Darwin Ski Club
20 Conacher St, Fannie Bay, tel: +61 (8) 8981 6630

The Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory
19 Conacher St, Fannie Bay, tel: +61 (8) 8999 8264

Berry Springs Nature Park
Cox Peninsula Rd (turn west off Stuart Hwy, about 47km south of Darwin)

Sailing Adventures NT
Tel: +61 (0) 408 795 567






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