July 2010

A Mountain of Fun

Get the adrenaline pumping over a weekend in Tongariro National Park on New Zealand’s north island

Words Amanda Linnell

Photo: Photolibrary

In the heart of New Zealand’s North Island, Tongariro National Park is a winter wonderland of fun-packed activities. Punching the skyline in this expansive World Heritage area are Mount Tongariro, Mount Ngauruhoe and the mighty Mount Ruapehu. This active volcano area is a hotspot for skiing and snowboarding with two main resorts: Whakapapa on the north side of the mountain and Turoa, just a 45-minute drive south.

If whizzing down a mountain on skis isn’t your thing, Tongariro National Park has plenty of other entertainment. Base yourself in the National Park Village and get all the action over one weekend.

FRIDAY

8pm Dine at the Station Café/Restaurant

in the historic railway station. Warm and cosy, it offers fine dining in the evening with an extensive menu and wine list.

SATURDAY

9am Take in the clean mountain air and beautiful vistas of the crisp white snow nestled on the central plateau. Head to Whakapapa Village, just 15km away at the foot of the mountain, to stock up on maps and ideas at the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.

9.30am While the most famous walk in this region is the fairly strenuous one-day Tongariro Crossing, you have to be seriously well-prepared to go in winter. Instead, there are plenty of shorter and just-as-impressive walks suitable for the whole family around Whakapapa Village.

Recommended are the Silica Rapids walk (about 150 minutes), Taranaki Falls (about 120 minutes) and the Ridge Track (about 30 minutes), which climbs through beech forest. These walks cover moderate terrain and provide the opportunity to get up close with unique alpine flora and fauna.

1pm For the adventurous, nothing beats having a blast on a mountain bike around the incredible tracks in the park. The “42 Traverse” is considered the craziest of them all, but at this time of the year, you’d have to prove to Rick Chapman of Kiwi Mountain Bikes that you know what you’re doing before you can head out on the three- to seven-hour ride.

For something less challenging, Chapman recommends a couple of shorter rides closer to the village, including the Fishers Track (21km, three hours), a downhill ride that Chapman enthuses “is a total adrenaline rush”. If Chapman’s not up the mountain skiing, he’ll happily take you on a guided tour himself.

Otherwise, try your hand at trout fishing in the Whakapapa River, the largest tributary to the impressive Whanganui River.

There are plenty of operators in the area, but try the team at Wades Landing Outdoors as they’re more than happy to collect you and share their secret fishing locations.

3pm For a relaxing indulgence, don’t miss the iconic Chateau Tongariro. Built in 1929, it has the elegance of yesteryear with all the modcons. Stop at the historic Ruapehu Lounge Bar for Devonshire tea in front of the roaring fires. With breathtaking views of the mountains, a golf course and tennis courts, it will take all your energy to leave its grandeur. After a day of action outdoors, you can just kick back for a game of billiards then an evening drink.

5pm Fancy yourself as the next Sir Edmund Hillary? Get climbing at National Park Backpackers’ 8m-high indoor climbing wall. With 55 different climbs and full supervision, it’s suitable for all abilities, ages and weather.

8pm If trout isn’t on your dinner menu, there’s always the Schnapps Bar for hearty meals ranging from fish and chips to braised lamb shanks with kumara mash. There’s an open fire, pool table, video games, live bands and DJs on Saturday nights. For something more intimate, try Basekamp’s delicious pizzas washed down with heart-warming vodka.

SUNDAY

10am If the weather’s good, blow your budget and take flight with Mountain Air Whakapapa Village tours to experience the spectacular beauty of the mountains, Emerald Lakes, Blue Lake and Tama Lake. You’ll fly right to the top so you can look down on the mountains’ live craters — a breathtaking experience you’ll find very difficult to forget any time soon.

11.30am With your feet back firmly on the ground, jump in the car and head to Ohakune. This is a buzzy little ski village that services the Turoa ski area on the southern side of the mountain.

12pm Drop by the Ruapehu Visitor Information Centre for more ideas on what to do, or try checking out Ohakune’s shops and restaurants. You could also take a drive up to the Turoa ski fields, hire sledges for the kids or build a snowman.

3pm From Ohakune, follow the road east around the mountain to the small town of Waiouru. The great monolithic grey building with army tanks outside is none other than New Zealand’s National Army Museum, a fascinating collection of wartime memorabilia. There’s a good café for hungry tums, but don’t stay too late as the road back to the National Park can be bleak and windswept.

7pm Head straight to the Chateau for that special dinner under the chandeliers in Ruapehu Restaurant — it’s the perfect way to wrap up your weekend of mountain fun.

Take Me There

STATION CAFÉ/ RESTAURANT
Cnr Findlay St and Station Rd, National Park Village, tel: +64(7) 892 2881

WHAKAPAPA VISITOR CENTRE
Tel: +64 (7) 892 4000

KIWI MOUNTAIN BIKES
National Park Village, tel: 0800 562 4537

WADES LANDING OUTDOORS
Rairimu Village, tel: +64(7) 895 5995

CHATEAU TONGARIRO
State Hwy 48, Mt Ruapehu, tel: +64(7) 892 3809

NATIONAL PARK BACKPACKERS
Findlay St, National Park Village, tel: +64(7) 892 2870

SCHNAPPS BAR
8 Findlay St, National Park Village, tel: +64 (7) 892 2788

BASEKAMP
57 Carroll St, National Park Village, tel: +64 (7) 892 2872

MOUNTAIN AIR WHAKAPAPA VILLAGE
Tel: +64 (7) 892 2812

RUAPEHU VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE
54 Clyde St, Ohakune, tel: +64 (6) 385 8427

NATIONAL ARMY MUSEUM
State Highway 1, Waiouru, tel: +64 (6) 387 6911

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