September 2009

A Yen for Surfing

The Japanese have well and truly been bitten by the surfing bug and when the surf’s up, they jump ship out of Tokyo

WORDS JAMES GALLETLY
PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA FOX

Niijima Island is a short ferry trip from Tokyo, but a million miles away in atmosphere. With crystal clear, blue water and brilliant surfing, it’s a hot summer holiday destination for young Japanese people, yet still relatively unknown outside of Japan.

Surfers in particular love the place. “Niijima is really beautiful, so many good waves,” says surfer Masa, who is on his third trip to this island. Jeremy, an Australian who has been living and surfing in Japan for 11 years, knows Niijima well. “I went out there after it had been pumping for two weeks straight… it looked like the Mexican Pipeline,” he says, referring to the world-class wave in Mexico.

When surfing on Niijima, your first stop should be Habushiura Beach, facing the open ocean. Local surfer, Maeda Yoshio grew up surfing there. “Habushiura Beach has so many peaks, you can always get a wave to yourself.” At the southern end of Habushiura is a surf spot called Secret, even though it’s on every surf map. Here a rocky outcrop produces good left- and right-hand waves. “Probably the most consistent on the island,” says Maeda.

During Japan’s typhoon season (July to September) Niijima is perfectly positioned to catch the powerful storm swells. Ferries and planes don’t run in rough weather, so once the waves are big, no more surfers arrive. Maeda loves it. ‘‘When the ferry stops, we [the locals] have the waves to ourselves.”

The great thing about surfing in Japan is that you don’t need to speak Japanese to get a surf report. In Japan, waves are measured in terms of body parts. Just gesture your way through a surf check by pointing to various parts of your body to find out if the waves are waist high, head high or overhead.

But Niijima has more to offer than just surfing. You can climb the highest peak on the island, Mt Miyatsuka (432m). It’s about a two-hour hike from Niijima village. There are fantastic ocean views from the lushly vegetated walking tracks around the southern end of the island. The Niijima-mura Museum has a surprisingly detailed display on the island’s colourful past. All the information is bi-lingual and there is an impressive collection of 1960s hollow wooden surfboards upstairs.

Near the museum are a few reminders of the island’s convict past. For an eerie experience, you can visit the exiles’ cemetery. If that doesn’t creep you out, try the execution ground. Here, 11 convicts met their end for crimes committed on the island.

Another one of Niijima’s pleasures is bicycle riding, which allows you to slow down, wave to the locals and enjoy the scenery. For a truly magical experience, start the day cycling along Habushiura Beach at sunrise and at sunset, take a tour along the western beaches from Wadahama to Mama-shita, ending at Yunohama Onsen (hotspring).

This free, public, open-air bathhouse has naturally heated water directed into rock pools and is perfectly placed to overlook the sea. Here, you can relax to the sound of waves lapping the cliffs below while your tired body is warmed to the bone.

The Niijima Grand Hotel is the only Western-style accommodation on the island but there are plenty of ryokan or minshuku to choose from. A traditional ryokan offers immaculately presented rooms but with a price to match (¥8,000–¥30,000 [AU$99–$374] per person). A minshuku is a cheaper version where you’ll be given a small tatami (rice-straw matting) room with a futon to sleep on (approx. ¥4,800 [AU$60] per person). For a little extra, breakfast and dinner is included (approx. ¥7,800 [AU$97] per person). Japanese surfers love minshukus “because they give you free bicycles and so much food, it’s easy for surfing all day”, says Maeda.

Or immerse yourself in Niijima’s natural beauty by camping. There’s a free campground just a two-minute walk from Habushiura Beach. It’s tucked away at the base of a mountain and surrounded by greenery. The Camp Ground is well maintained, has cold showers and firewood supplied. A warm shower can be found at Habushiura Beach for ¥100 (AU$1.25). This campsite gets full in summer holidays (16 July to 21 August), which can be a good thing if you like to party. The island has a reputation as a summer party destination and the campsite is where the revelry begins.

Outside summertime, evenings can be quiet. Then, you’re bound to attract the curiosity of the friendly locals. There’s one karaoke bar in the village, Bar Kurombo, and three izakaya — small bars serving sake (rice wine) and shochu (strong liquor) with food substantial enough to be an evening meal.

Eating out in Niijima is a simple affair. There’s only a handful of restaurants in the main village. The local sushi bar or yakitori (Japanese barbecue) bar are good places to try. If you get the chance, be sure to sample kusaya — salty dried fish with a distinct odour. It’s a local speciality.

Dosanco is a local noodle shop run by a surfer. It’s cheap and the portions are generous. Naturally, it’s a favourite for a post-surf re-fuel. Dosanco is also a surf shop. You can get essentials like wax here, and hire a surfboard for ¥3,500 (AU$43) per day. There is one other restaurant-cum-surf shop on the island, Habushiura Surf Station — good for surf supplies and a hamburger. Both stores stock only the basics so bring your own surfing equipment.

FIND IT

Niijima by sea: Ferries leave from Takashiba pier, within walking distance of Hamamatsucho station, on the JR network. Buy ferry tickets at the pier on the day of travel. There’s a fast boat (2 hours 45 minutes) or a slower, cheaper passenger ferry (9 hours overnight). Ferries are run by T[014d]kai Kisen Company.

Wetsuit conditions: January and February = 5mm wetsuit; March–May and December = 3mm wetsuit; June to November = board shorts and wetsuit vest.

Best time for surfing: Typhoon season is from July to October and peaks in August and September. Good waves can still be had outside these times.

Forecast: There’s a live surf cam at www.niijima.com

For tourist information: Visit the office near the pier on Niijima. They speak basic English and can help you book accommodation or organise bicycle hire.