October 2009

Bali Cool

We bring you the essential stylemeister’s inside guide to Bali

WORDS ALEX ZABOTTO-BENTLEY
PHOTOGRAPHY MARNIE HADDAD

It's a myth that Bali provides the traveller with nothing but knockoffs and Bintang T-shirts. In fact, with a little help from those in the know, your Balinese fashion journey could be tremendously fulfilling — your fashion choices reflecting glowingly long after you leave this magical place. But beware, stray off this path and I won’t be responsible for your AU$5 hair plaiting and exploding faux Rolex watches.

As a rule of thumb, the Indonesian rupiah gravitates round the IDR8,000 to AU$1. Stick with that conversion and forget the 200–600 rupiah either side. It will only get you flustered! This guide will eliminate your need for bartering. The prices in these stores are fixed, saving you hideous haggling cringe moments!

I have been to Bali 29 times, to style videos on location, for fashion campaigns and editorial shoots, and for my own label fashionassassin, produced in Bali. I know this island! Here, we pinpoint the best of Bali fashion — mostly from ex-Aussies who are stellar in their craft — helping you to look sensational on the island and of course, making you an outright winner back home.

The words on the street are organic, reuse and recycle. From food to fashion, Bali is ripe with the green initiative.

First stop. Situated at the Paris end of Seminyak, Tuck Shop/The Corner Store bursts with the cognoscenti of Bali. This place is like Mecca. And Sean Cosgrove, ex-Melbourne owner/designer could even be the oracle of Bali. Large outdoor courtyard tables everywhere and the world whizzing by you. It makes a fantastic place to start your fashion trek.

A breakfast of crispy well-done hash browns with organic rocket, lime and olive oil dressing, and a poached egg (IDR35,000; AU$4.20) is incredible fuel for your day. This is also a mini department store filled with Little Horn (Sean’s rocking kids’ brand) and handpicked locally produced adult designer stuff. Sean has an amazing eye and this is the pick of the coolest around with prices from IDR110,000–800,000 (AU$13–$95.70).

Jump on a bike, cab or leg it to Jalan Kunti — the New York of Seminyak — for the next stop. The newest megastore, Word of Mouth opened in August 2009. World travellers Valentina and Abhi are the hosts of this modernist wonderland. Pop-up books from all over the globe, flock Chairman Mao moneyboxes, their own custom-designed furniture and striking limited edition fashion pieces including Alice McCall. A must see.

Two stores down is Shop 5. This thriving shop/exhibition space is owned by Jessian Polk, whose beautifully cut and tailored cotton dresses from her Oscar the Third label are exclusive to this store. Also here is NXM — Nicholas Morley from the Buddhist Punk dynasty. He is priceless and his post-punk carved bone cameos, renegade tees, recycled denim bags and wallets are superb. Prices start from IDR300,000 (AU$35.90).

Natasha hails from Sydney and has crafted the most beautiful niche here with her boutique Allegra. Think Stella McCartney with a ginger and tangerine mojito and you’re in. Elegant and considered detailed silk, jerseys, and a score of accessories, bags and shoes — it’s a lovely experience. Prices from IDR370,000 (AU$44.30).

Rush back to Jalan Laksmana, wave to Sean and go directly to Pete Woodward’s store The Prisoners of St Petersburg, a 3m by 2m colour explosion emporium. His signature print dresses in soft jerseys and his finds from his travels make this experience so unique that you could spend an hour just looking. The best collection of original mint-condition vintage sunglasses from the likes of Christian Dior and Paloma Picasso (IDR890,000; AU$106.55) are worth every rupiah. Don’t miss these fashion treasures!

Fifteen doors down, the next stop is Zuttion. Time to re-fuel, you say? Don’t fret. Pete Zuttion has opened a boutique and a totally organic café called Zucchini. This place is a dream and serves the best lunch in Seminyak. Combos of brilliantly presented and delicious organic salads (IDR40,000; AU$4.71) accompanied by a fresh raspberry and lemon cooler are spot on. It’s dedicated food for the dedicated shopper. Zuttion’s definitive style is easy. Simple limited edition men’s wear and women’s wear with fine detail in 100% cotton are outstanding. Prices from IDR350,000 (AU$41.91).

Nick White’s label Niko a few doors down at Lily Jean is based on simple lines with stand-out prints. It’s kind of rocker-meets-cocktail chic. And with prices from just IDR390,000 (AU$46.70), you’ll look very chic for dinner indeed.

Travel down the Jalan and hit Quarzia, Simonetta and Marco’s über-store, which incidentally just won best store locally. These effervescent Italians sure know how to design. Their pieces are classic tonal, tertiary-coloured and exquisite. Women’s, men’s and homewares. It’s a slice of Capri.

Further along is a ripper of a store. If you can’t find anything to buy at workshop 13, you’re mad! Johnny is an ex-Melburnian of Chinese descent. He specialises in goldplated one-off necklaces and brilliant leather bags. Every jewellery piece is covetable. I bought one, Marnie the photographer bought one, and in fact everyone has stopped us to ask where he or she can buy one. He is so very talented and his pieces are well worth the investment. Prices from IDR350,000–3,500,000 (AU$41.89–$418.95).

After an exhaustive shopping day there are scores of hi-end bars to show off your new purchases, from Ku De Ta to Chandi, Sentosa and Kuni’s. Seminyak is the sharp end of the island and fashion brands are certainly carving a beautiful niche with it.

Returning on your flight home you’ll look like you’ve been to St Tropez and not a night market. Just remember, everything you buy will be coveted by your friends and family. Save them the heartache and buy two of everything and your Christmas shopping is in the bag!