August 2008

Chillin' in Tassie

Leave the grey damp behind and head to Tasmania where winter means white snow and roaring log fires – and more blue skies and sunshine than you’d imagine


At 1,617m, Mount Ossa
within Cradle Mountain–Lake
St. Clair National Park is
Tasmania’s highest peak WORDS GABI MOCATTA

At 42 degrees south, Tassie is blessed with a winter that’s alternately ferocious and wonderful. It’s the kind of winter where you migrate your woolly clothes to the front of your wardrobe with the first flutter of falling leaves. Winter in Tasmania is often so gloriously clear and crisp that when you breathe the air, you feel like you’re drinking champagne – and the most essential item of your winter wardrobe is sunglasses.

When the cold hits, head for the mountains to hike the legendary Overland Track, the 65km walk through mountain wilderness in the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. Be well prepared for weather that can change at the drop of a beanie and luxuriate in blissfully crowd-free walking under clear skies, where everything is filigreed with ice.


Snuggle up at Lemonthyme Lodge
Photo: Gabi Mocatta If the thought of carrying all your keep-warm necessities doesn’t warm your heart, you’re better off at a mountain lodge. Cradle Mountain Lodge on the west coast is a Tasmanian classic. Set in alpine forest just steps from the park’s entrance, it’s all timber and tartan: the perfect warm retreat from icy days outdoors. Most of the cabins have spas and log fires and there’s hearty fare at the Highlander Restaurant.


Marakoopa Cave is a respite from
the chills
Photo: Tourism Tasmania/
George ApostolidisThose who love low-key with just a dose of wintry indulgence will fall in love with Lemonthyme Lodge. This place feels like it’s grown out of the forest that surrounds it, with luxurious wood cabins nestled between head-high ferns. This is a place to spend long evenings around the fire while the snow settles gently on the trees outside. By day, there are walks to nearby waterfalls that are spectacular with rain and snow-melt in winter and pademelons hopping about.

One of the best places for walks in the snow is the central Walls of Jerusalem National Park, where the right geography means there’s often a dusting, even in summer. With good gear – tough, waterproof boots and warm, windproof layers, as well as a map and some bushwalking savvy – a day’s walk here is a pleasant way to get into deep winter. Wind down afterwards at the delightful Mole Creek Guest House, where meat pies and bread and butter pudding sate winter appetites.


Try your hand at tobaganning
Photo: Gabi MocattaClose to Mole Creek are two places in Tassie where the temperature never changes – summer or winter. Magnificent King Solomons and Marakoopa Caves, at a cool nine degrees, are rich with intricate limestone formations and glow worms year round.

When it does snow, try skiing at Ben Lomond National Park, which reaches lofty heights of 1,573m near Launceston in the state’s north. Between July and September whenever there’s enough snow, the resort’s seven lifts grind into action and snow bunnies come out to play. Up on the mountain, Ben Lomond Snow Sports does ski, boot and lift packages – with a lesson thrown in if you’d like. Stay at Tasmania’s highest pub, the Creek Inn where, snow conditions permitting, you can swoosh right to the door.


Meet the local wombats
Photo: Tourism Tasmania/
Ray YaxleyTasmania’s towns gear up well for winter, too. Launceston’s the spot to dress warmly and stroll through the city’s parks, basking in the winter sun filtered through the bare European trees. There’s also winter warming to be done at Aquarius Roman Baths, where you can turn a shade of beetroot in the Caldarium, get the circulation pumping in the icey Frigidarium or buff up the winter skin with a invigorating seaweed massage. Follow that with blistering vindaloo curry at the city’s best Indian, Pickled Evenings and then snuggle up in Launceston’s funkiest place to stay, TwoFourTwo at the “Paris end” of Charles Street.


Hearty fare from Peppermint
Bay Photo: Gabi MocattaIn Tasmania’s capital, winter is heralded by a sugaring of snow on the slopes of 1,270m Mount Wellington. Hobartians just can’t help themselves when the white stuff comes down: they head up the mountain in droves to sled, ski, make snowmen, or at least have a good snowball fight. Join them, and when you come down from the slopes head to a cosy café like the Macquarie Street Foodstore to order lashings of chunky winter soup and possibly the finest mocha latte in the world.

With winter the stillest and sunniest time in Tassie, cruising is also on the agenda. In the interests of spoiling oneself rotten, head to


Snow much fun
Photo: Gabi MocattaPeppermint Bay restaurant and bar– just south of Hobart – by water. A leisurely cruise with Hobart Cruises takes you down the beautiful D’Entrecasteaux Channel. Here, the legendary restaurant on the bay cooks up a winter storm: you could hardly do better than the melt-in-your-mouth lamb shanks with a deep Tassie pinot as you gaze out to the wintery, watery views.

In the depths of Tasmanian winter, the days may be short, but the nights are long and starry – and if you’re lucky, the Aurora Australis (southern polar lights) may just come out to play. So wrap up and head south where the real winter roams.

Malcolm Riley, weatherman, Bureau of Meteorology and avid sea kayaker
“I remember one winter’s day – about eight degrees – when I was kayaking Hobart’s D’Entrecasteaux Channel. The water was like a millpond, not a cloud in the sky and I was kayaking though a perfect reflection of snow-capped Mount Wellington… unforgettable. One of my favourite places to eat is the Cock and Bull English Pub [50 Wellington St, tel: +61 (3) 6331 0844] in Launceston. It’s the home of true, hearty winter food.”

Laura Minnebo, journalism student and barrista at Macquarie Street Foodstore
“Tassie’s great in winter. Bushwalking is one of the things I love – especially getting out into the old growth forests like the Upper Florentine Valley, just a couple of hours out of Hobart. The classic thing in Hobart, even in winter, is the Saturday Markets at Salamanca – you can warm up with hot drinks at places like Tricycle Café [77 Salamanca Plc, tel: +61 (3) 6223 7228] or Machine [12 Salamanca Sq, tel: +61 (3) 6224 9922]. Hobart’s State Cinema [375 Elizabeth St, tel: +61 (3) 6234 6318] is our classic artsy cinema; it’s a great place to pass the long winter nights.”

Find It:

Cradle Mountain Lodge
4038 Cradle Mountain Rd, tel: +61 3 6492 2100
Lemonthyme Lodge
770 Dolcoath Rd, off Cradle Mountain Rd, tel: + 61 (3) 6492 1112
Mole Creek Guest House
100 Pioneer Drv, Mole Creek, tel: +61 (3) 6363 1399
King Solomons and Marakoopa Caves
Tel: + 61 (3) 6363 5182
- Ben Lomond Snow Sports
Ben Lomond, Launceston, tel: +62 (3) 6390 6185
Creek Inn
Ben Lomond, Launceston, tel +61 (3) 6390 6199
Aquarius Roman Baths
127–133 George St, Launceston, tel: +61 (3) 6331 2255
Pickled Evenings
135 George St, Launceston, tel: +61 (3) 6331 0110
TwoFourTwo
242 Charles St, Launceston, tel: +61 (3) 6331 9242
Macquarie Street Foodstore
356 Macquarie St, Hobart, tel: +61 (3) 6224 6862
Peppermint Bay
3435 Channel Hwy, Woodbridge, tel: +61 (3) 6267 4088
Hobart Cruises
Brooke St Pier, Sullivan’s Cove, Hobart, tel: +61 (3) 6231 5113






Comments

There are no comments posted yet. Be the first one!

Post a new comment

Your name
Your comment