March 2010

Conquering komodos by kayak

Inhabited by Komodo dragons, the Flores Islands in Indonesia offers an extraordinary wildlife adventure holiday, perfect for families with teenagers

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LYNN GUNNING

Craving a getaway to a holiday spot not too far from home, the idea of island hopping by kayak to pristine, deserted beaches and camping out under the stars really appealed. Our “No Roads” adventure was exactly that.

With a diverse mix of cultures and languages on this string of Indonesian islands, West Flores is a hidden treasure. Its main drawcard is the ancient and majestic komodo dragon, which remains on only four of the islands. It’s also archaeologically significant as home of a fossilised hobbit-like inhabitant.

Peter Miller from No Roads Expeditions fell in love with the area and devised the tour. “We’re the only sea kayak company in the park and have all the islands and inlets to ourselves,” he boasts. “We essentially go where few other people go.”

You can tell from his enthusiasm that it’s more than your average tour. “I love the isolation, the sheer natural beauty of the place, the sense that you are an explorer in an ancient and rugged world. The fact that there are dragons makes the place even more mythical,” Miller says.

The feeling of accomplishment, the incredible wildlife and unadulterated relaxation make this trip a pure joy. Watching sea eagles dance across the sky, admiring clown fish antics and marvelling at the quirky dragons are rare opportunities made accessible by this unique adventure.

We absorb sunsets of deep orange hues that cascade into red, then plunge into a fireball of deep scarlet as the last of the light seeps from the sky. The colours crawl across the sea and lap at the edge of the sand. The anticipation builds as I ponder tomorrow’s paddle to Komodo National Park and my first encounter with a dragon.

Scientists believe the komodo dragons were an early Australian adventurer to the region, with recent fossil records in Queensland indicating the dragons originated in Australia four million years ago and moved to Flores one million years ago.

We alight at Rinca Island for a walking tour of the World Heritage-listed park. Our guide, Raymond, is a passionate local with a wealth of knowledge and incredible reverence for his charges. We choose the longer 5km loop around the reptile nesting and feeding sites, before continuing up to high ground for

photos over the island. I am awestruck by the dragons, from their fine scales to their long claws and the faint smile that tickles their mouths as they rest in the shade.

According to Raymond, dragons nest in August, with females defending the nest for three months. Hatchlings arrive in April, spending their first three years in the trees to avoid being eaten by older dragons.

Despite their formidable reputation, dragons rarely kill outright. “Dragons have over 50 strains of bacteria on their teeth, so one bite can be fatal,” warns Raymond. “The dragon then follows its prey until it dies of blood poisoning.

“The dragons can also smell food up to 6km away,” quips Raymond as we approach a nesting site. I can’t help but feel like a home-delivered meal as we wander behind our diminutive guide and his five-foot safety stick.

For fellow traveller Ian Dunning, who has never done a family camping trip, seven days of paddling around the unspoilt waters of Flores provide the opportunity for an unforgettable and challenging holiday.

“It was a risk on my part as I was the one who really wanted to do it,” confides Dunning. “I bulldozed my wife, son (14) and daughter
(18) into agreeing. My wife was really, really concerned — could she do the paddling, how comfortable was it, were there mosquitoes?

I wanted to take an opportunity as a family to do something really different and really memorable, together.” The adventure proved to be both. “The hardest thing was the first day,” muses Dunning. “Having got through that, everything else was doable.”

On our first day of paddling, we savour our last shower for a week and listen to a short briefing and simple safety check before venturing out from the Bajo Eco Lodge across the mud flats in our two-man kayaks. The three-hour paddle to the island of Kanawa is challenging with brisk winds and rolling swell — a baptism of fire for our arm muscles. We arrive tired, yet satisfied, and are assured that the longest paddle is over.

Sure enough, the paddling becomes easier. When day two dawns with glorious blue skies and flat water, the group quickly settles into a natural daily rhythm: rise at dawn, snorkel, breakfast, paddle to a new island, explore the reefs, lunch and nap. Heaven!

By day three, we are seasoned paddlers. Having reached the spectacular snorkelling

site of Tatawa Island, we swap our paddles for snorkels and some serious reef combing. Incredible blue and mauve coral, stately clams, sneaky crustaceans and a staggering array of fish, manta rays and even a shark reveal themselves. The five-foot tide disappears well out to sea by dusk, leaving our support boat high and dry — propped up on driftwood — and exposing many of the reefs we explored earlier in the day.

Enroute we have the opportunity to sample regional culture, including an exhibition of traditional whip fighting, conventional fishing practices and an unexpected encounter with the exuberant children from a nearby fishing community.

All catering is prepared on the support boat from fresh local produce. We feast on seasonal fruit, grilled fish, simple stir-fries and vegetable curries, with a Western option provided.

“It was fantastic. I am really overwhelmed by how good the trip was,” beams Dunning. “It has motivated me to do more. It’s the sense of achievement. I’d really recommend it to other families and even nonkayakers.”

Jetstar flies to Bali from Perth, Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane and Darwin. Jetsaver Light fares from AU$229 one way. Book online at Jetstar.com