February 2012

FOR WHOM THE BELL TOLLS

In north-east Thailand, an age-old craft strives for survival

Founded by a cluster of families who escaped Vientiane during the upheaval of the late 1700s, little Ban Pa Ao has a history as long as nearby Ubon Ratchatani. In those days this land was part of the kingdom of Laos, but today it's a quiet Thai village nestling among rice paddies and luxuriant forest.

Located at the edge of the village, the Ban Pa Ao temple-bell foundry is the last of its kind in the region.

It uses a 2,000-year-old technique known as the 'lost wax' process to produce a range of handbells and hanging bells. The method is complicated and time-consuming.

A precisely modelled wax bell is carefully encased in a mix of clay and buffalo dung, which is then fired to melt away the wax to form a rock-hard mud mould. This is then filled with molten brass or bronze that — once set — is smashed out of the casing to be polished and refined.

A dozen or more men work here day in, day out, shaping and finishing all manner of bells, as well as smaller items such as crotal bells and hair slides for temple dance troupes.

Occasionally they receive orders for larger bells (up to 2m in height and 1m girth). These use vast amounts of wax — and demand a potentially hazardous amount of firing. "We must move the mould into the forest, make a large clearing and let it bake in a big, hot fire for a couple of days," explains Boonmee Lomwong, leader of the foundry collective. "We're very proud of every bell — big or small."

Ban Pa Ao is about 20km northwest of Ubon Ratchatani — signs from the 273km marker on Route 23 will lead through the village to the foundry at the north end.