December 2010

Going the Distance

Eat like a local and feast like a king in New South Wales’ countryside

WORDS CLARE BRUNDLE

The 100 -mile diet might have originated in Canada, but its local approach to eating has been embraced by the picturesque Central Tablelands of New South Wales, where the surrounding 100 miles (or 161km) are packed full of vineyards, orchards, olive groves and farmland.

To help kick-start your own foodie adventure, we map out a few of the best places to sample the local fare in and around the popular country towns Mudgee and Orange, both an easy three-and-a-half-hour drive west from Sydney through the Blue Mountains.

Nestled on the hillside of Apple Tree Flat outside Mudgee, Peter and Hannah Logan’s sleek modern tasting room at Logan Wines is an ideal place to drink in the sweeping valley views — while sipping a glass of wine from this boutique winemaker’s Mudgee and Orange vineyards, and nibbling on a 100-mile platter. Local cheeses take pride of place, including the award-winning Jannei goat’s cheese from Lidsdale and nearby High Valley’s smooth marinated feta.

“I love the rich fruit flavours that Australian wines have become famous for, but I’m equally inspired by the savouriness and elegance of European wines,” says Peter. “Rather than make one style or the other, I attempted to make a hybrid of the two. So I ended up with something new — fruitiness with finesse.”

Fifteen minutes up the highway is di Lusso Estate’s cellar door, where owner Robert Fairall and his team have a knack for making everyone feel at home. You can either pop by for a tasting of his Italian-variety wines (“made for food pairing,” says Robert), olives and figs in the big barn, or head outside to the restaurant on the lakeside terrace for a “winemaker’s lunch” of 100-mile pizza straight from the nearby oven. Be sure to leave room for a slice of sticky dessert pizza and glass of syrupy Passito — a favourite of esteemed wine critic James Halliday, apparently.

Also winning fans is The Farmer’s Pantry, a five-minute drive away. Head here to find out what made a London vet decide to become a pig farmer-cum-café owner in Mudgee (answer: a good Aussie wife, two small kids and a desire to live a rural life). James and Georgie Caspar set up nearby Ormiston Free Range Pork Farm more than three years ago, followed by the cosy The Farmer’s Pantry in October last year, as a place to sell their piggy produce alongside other local fare.

“Spending so much time at the farmers’ markets impressed on both of us the huge amount of regional produce that the area has to offer. We’re passionate about the ‘locavore’ concept, and as we’re also small producers, we understand it’s hard getting products out to the general public,” says James.

Pull up a chair at one of the wooden tables and take your pick from the weekly specials, or go the whole hog, and order a 100-mile platter filled with Ormiston salami and hams, High Valley feta and Oakfield Estate olives — accompanied by organic sourdough and salads.

Ormiston Pork can also be found on sale at the thriving Mudgee Fine Foods Farmers’ Market, held on the third Saturday of every month (8.30am–12.30pm) in the grounds of St Mary’s Catholic Church. The market offers a unique opportunity to meet the leading local producers all in one place and sample the wide variety of edible treats on offer.

“No visit to the Mudgee Fine Foods Farmers’ Market is complete without a taste of the freshest of herbs from Terry Rakis of Vrises Valley Organic Farm, John Grant’s artisan bread from Mudgee Sourdough, succulent Ormiston Pork, For Heaven’s Bake’s handcrafted biscuits, and the small-batch seasonal preserves of Angela’s Edibles,” recommends Simon Staines, the president of Mudgee Fine Foods.

If you’re in search of fine dining, then it doesn’t come much better than Racine @ La Colline, a scenic two-hour drive away in neighbouring Orange. Set in the pretty La Colline vineyard with valley views, Racine has a modern menu that uses symbols to indicate where the local ingredients come from. “Orange has such a perfect climate for growing a vast array of produce, and there are such diverse and interesting ingredients being produced here,” says owner-chef Shaun Arantz. “Venison is a particular favourite, as it’s a great quality product and comes from just down the road at Mandagery Creek.” Going full circle, Arantz also bakes his own bread, and has become a popular supplier for other Orange restaurants and shops. One such example is A Slice of Orange, back in the town centre. This providore and coffee bar is run by sister act Jess and Lisa Lovick, who take pride in sourcing the best local produce they can find.

“A Slice of Orange is like a gourmet tasting plate of all the region’s finest food and produce,” says Jess. Make a beeline here for foodie souvenirs, a pre-ordered 100-mile picnic hamper of goodies, or an espresso made from Bills Beans locally roasted coffee.

If you’re in town on a Sunday, make the 10-minute drive out of town along the lovely Borenore road to the Old Convent. Brunch here is something of an institution — you’d be foolish to miss out on Josie Chapman’s cooking — just be sure to book.

Tucked behind a charming and historic little convent, the light-filled café is dominated by a big wooden chopping block laden with bowls of delicious Borenore Berry Farm raspberries and equally yummy cakes. The emphasis is on good home cooking, using local suppliers whenever possible. For those who love tucking into a hot brekkie, the corn fritters with Trunkey Creek bacon and roasted tomatoes are definitely highly recommended.

Follow up your brunch with a visit to Small Acres Cyder’s tasting room, a five-minute drive away. Owners Gail and James Kendell decided to get into the business after British-born Gail couldn’t find a decent cider in Australia. They’re now passionate about making premium cider from true heritage cider apple varieties. Do taste Small Acres’ new Cidre Rouge and Perry (pear cider) releases — both firsts on the Australian market.

“The best part of my job is working with my hands to produce a product that everybody loves,” says James, echoing the sentiments of many producers in Orange and Mudgee. We’ll eat and drink to that.

What makes Mudgee such a special foodie destination?

“A thriving café culture, vibrant pub scene, hand-crafted beers, crisp whites and ‘left- field’ reds — plus friendly locals, a chance to meet producers at the farmers’ market and getting down ‘n’ dirty on a farm walk.” Simon Staines, president, Mudgee Fine Foods