September 2010

Golden Days

With a mother lode of attractions to choose from, Ballarat is a treasure trove of family fun

Golden Days

WORDS STEPHANIE GREEN

Pile into the car and take to the Victorian countryside to discover the many charms of Ballarat, a 90-minute drive from Melbourne (one hour from Tullamarine airport) on the Western Highway.

STEP BACK IN TIME

No trip to Ballarat is complete without a visit to Sovereign Hill, which celebrates its 40th anniversary this November. This outdoor museum recreates Ballarat of the 1850s, when the mining boom was at its peak and the streets were filled with adventurers from all corners of the globe who hoped to strike it rich. The kids can pose with a policeman, while the soldiers march up Main Street beating the military drum. Visit the blacksmith and see a demonstration of carriage-building, grimace at the medical implements at the apothecary and while you’re there, pick up some sweetly fragrant bath salts. Watch amazed at the AU$80,000 gold bullion pour before the kids clamour for the confectionary shop’s humbugs. Then catch a pantomime, go bowling and pan for gold.

Our 11-year-old son Nick suggests: “Get a ‘wanted’ poster with your name on it — their printing machine sure beats potato stamps!” While most of Sovereign Hill’s activities are free with your entry ticket, you can also join some of the special excursions and interactive experiences. You’ll need to book these, but the shows are frequent, so it’s not a hassle. Both our boys recommend Trapped, which recreates the tragic disaster of 1882, when 22 miners were lost 1,000 feet below ground. Descend in pitch black down a mineshaft via Inclined Tramway, go through cold, dim diggings, and see the re-enacted rescue efforts that galvanised the nation.

Ari, our other 11-year-old son, says: “Sit at the front of the rail carriage — it’s the scariest place. Wait and see what happens when you stop. You’re in for a big surprise!”

But it’s at night that Sovereign Hill really shines — the Blood on the Southern Cross show is unmissable. A sound-and-light spectacular, it retells the story of the Eureka Stockade. The birth of Australian democracy, when more than 30 miners were killed in a rebellion against corrupt and greedy British authorities, is woven into a series of carefully orchestrated set pieces across a 60-acre expanse, complete with a burning hotel, gunfire and smoke.

The evening starts with a delicious roast dinner at the New York Bakery. Then it’s off to the Discovery Centre’s auditorium, where the show gets underway. Be warned — parts of it take place outside, so come prepared — spring nights can be cold.

Nick says: “The effects were amazing, especially the part when Scotty dies and the hotel catches fire.” Ari recommends: “Sit in the front row where the heater is!”

You’ll need at least a day to fully explore Sovereign Hill. Better still, stay overnight in one of the spacious rooms at the Sovereign Hill Lodge.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

For a change of pace, head to Tuki Trout Farm. A scenic 30-minute drive from Ballarat via Creswick, Tuki was a smash hit with our boys. Hire a couple of rods with bait (strangely, the trout love corn kernels) and soak up the glorious views. Nick says: “For guaranteed results, go to the aerated ponds.”

You can have your catch cleaned and packed, or cooked and served for lunch. Our boys hooked three fish, which we ate in the renovated stables. The boys were dubious — neither is particularly keen on fish — but their plates were empty in record time.

For a cuddlier animal experience, head to Ballarat Wildlife Park. Here, you can pat a koala or hand-feed a kangaroo, as well as view wombats, saltwater crocs and rare Tasmanian devils. You may also spot a celebrity or two — recent visitors include Nicolas Cage and Katie Holmes. There’s even a free guided tour at 11am daily.

For star-gazing of a different kind, you can’t go past Ballarat Observatory. Open on Friday and Saturday nights, a team of enthusiastic amateur astronomers will take you through the basics at Australia’s first municipal observatory. Watch 3-D movies that bring outer space to life, then head outdoors to the giant telescope. Dress warmly — you won’t want to miss this part. We spied Venus, Saturn and the Alpha Centauri binary star system.

There are plenty of great bike rides in and around Ballarat. Hire a bike from Welcome Nugget Bikes, then try the parkland ride, taking in the botanical gardens, prisoner-of- war memorial, adventure playground and Olympic precinct; or the Yarrowee River trail which links bushland, wetlands, and flora and fauna reserves. Load up on picnic treats at Beechworth Bakery — home of the famous Ned Kelly pie (made of bacon, eggs and steak), and just about every gooey dessert slice, cake and bun that you can imagine.

UNDERCOVER EXPLORATIONS

If the weather turns bad, there are still plenty of options for families. The Gold Museum is just across the road from Sovereign Hill. With a fortune on display or for sale in the shop, it’s a mecca for gold lovers. To burn off some of that energy, the Gold Rush Mini Golf has indoor and outdoor 18-hole courses, a games arcade, a sports simulator and a parents’ lounge; you can easily wait out the rain here.

Older kids will thoroughly enjoy creeping themselves out on a night-time walking tour from Ballarat Ghost and Cemetary Tours. Conducted by historians and storytellers, the tour visits Old Ballarat’s most haunted places. Round up your day with dinner at the historic Craig’s Royal Hotel or Ballarat Steakhouse.

WHERE TO STAY

Sovereign Hill Lodge offers many accommodation choices, including the tasteful four-star Heritage Room. There are also plenty of B&Bs to choose from. Our choice, Martin Place B&B, is a three-bedroom renovated cottage near Sovereign Hill and the Eureka Centre. Grownups will appreciate the spa bath, while the kids will love the games room.

Take Me There

SOVEREIGN HILL
Bradshaw St, Ballarat, tel: +61 (3) 5337 1100

TUKI TROUT FARM
60 Stoney Rises Rd, Smeaton tel: +61 (3) 5345 6233

BALLARAT WILDLIFE PARK
250 Fussell St, Ballarat, tel: +61 (3) 5333 5933

BALLARAT OBSERVATORY
Cnr Magpie and Cobden Sts, Mt Pleasant, tel: +61 (3) 5332 7526

WELCOME NUGGET BIKES
128 Lydiard St North, Ballarat, tel: +61 (0) 423 268 618

BEECHWORTH BAKERY
6 Grenville St, Ballarat, tel: +61 (3) 5338 8868

GOLD RUSH MINI GOLF
Western Hwy, Warrenheip, Ballarat, tel: +61 (3) 5334 8150

BALLARAT GHOST AND CEMETERY TOURS
Tel: 1300 856 668

MARTIN PLACE B&B
12 Martin St, Ballarat, tel: +61 (0) 429 439 448






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