July 2010

Into the Wilds

The Namosi Highlands show off a spectacular flip-side of Fiji, with everything from traditional ceremonies to adventure activities along the way

by ANDY PHILLIPS

Main photo: Lonely Planet Images/Scott Darsney; INSET: Getty Images

There are no sun-loungers, buffets or swim-up bars where I’m going. Ahead is a bumpy dirt road, a murky beverage to drink and some of the most epic scenery in Fiji. Seeing the beach and its plush resort disappear into the rear-view mirror of the bus is just the first part of a journey into the Namosi Highlands, the highest point in Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu.

While most visitors to the spectacular Coral Coast stick to the white sand beaches and fringing reef of the island’s southern flank, heading in the opposite direction holds alternative attractions. Travelling inland from the coastal Queens Road instead means waves of green hills and traditional villages — and some of the best adrenaline-pumping activities in the archipelago.

The journey starts at Pacific Harbour, an area of manicured lawns and the deep blue hue of the South Pacific Ocean. A three-hour bus ride east of Nadi takes us to the base of Rivers Fiji, an eco-tourism company offering a range of trips exploring the Coral Coast’s diverse scenery. While there are sea kayaking tours and island visits, the firm’s most popular itineraries involve going into the nation’s lush interior, the Namosi Highlands.

According to Rivers Fiji’s general manager Kim Andersen, it’s difficult to pick out an individual highlight of the trip, as the Namosi Highlands is a place that simply wows so many visitors.“This whole trip is a look at the real Fiji of the past,” she says. “The features of the highlands have a beauty that few tourists ever see.”

After meeting our guides Adre, Kini and Jovilisi — all from local villages — the first part of the trip is by bus. We climb steeply away from the coastline, winding upwards ’til we catch sight of spectacular views back towards Beqa Lagoon. Cresting a ridge, we drop into the spectacular Namosi Valley, which offers an entirely different glimpse of Fiji.

Jaw-dropping vistas of saw-toothed mountains and rivers are broken up by villages that seem trapped in time. Children in starched uniforms emerge from wicker houses or wave at us from school playing fields. It’s a bumpy ride, but the driver, who sports a permanent grin, deftly steers around the deeper potholes. The bus stops often to allow camera-toting visitors to get out and take photos of the sublime views.

By mid-morning we reach the village of Nakavika, high in the mountains. After filing off the bus, everyone is given a sulu, a unisex wraparound skirt, to cover our legs before going to meet the chief.

It’s clear that this is no tourist trap. Woven matting lies drying on grassy areas between rows of simple homes made from wood or corrugated iron. Children peek out of windows waving at us while their mothers hang out hand-washed clothes to dry.

Here, traditions are still followed. Visitors must first go to the chief’s hut to drink kava — a mildly narcotic drink — before they can be welcomed into the village proper. The chief himself, a wizened old man who introduces himself as Leo, sits cross-legged in front of a small table as we step into his one-room wooden hut. He welcomes us with a warm smile and thanks us for travelling such a long way here.

Our group sits in a circle around a large wooden bowl called the taunoa — the traditional mixing bowl for the kava. Once the liquid is ready, it is passed around in a half-shell coconut cup. Local tradition states that each person must clap once before accepting the cup, then down the contents in one gulp. The drink tastes like muddy water but leaves my lips feeling slightly numb. The tour guides take part too. Kini grimaces as he downs his cup.“He stayed up until 2am drinking kava last night,” laughs fellow guide Jovilisi.

If the journey up into the Namosi Highlands focuses on Fijian culture, then the trip back down is all about the adrenaline rush. Rivers Fiji offers several blood-pumping ways to descend the highlands, and have exclusive rights to run trips on the Upper Navua and Wainikoriiluva (’Luva) rivers.

The journey through the steep-sided Upper Navua Gorge is a white-water rafting adventure, with five or six people to each raft and the steering controlled by expert guides. Tricky rapids combine with stunning scenery to make it an unforgettable experience.

The trip on the ’Luva River is done with individual inflatable kayaks. They are unrolled once out of the bus, and inflated by the side of the river while the group puts on life jackets and helmets.

After a few safety tips from lead guide Adre, each of us attempts to negotiate the class II rapids. The challenge, as we soon find out, is in threading a path through the rock maze. But with water temperature averaging 25°C, nobody complains when they fall out. The scenery remains equally as impressive, with waterfalls gushing down at the edge of the river and sheer cliffs covered in green moss.

The ’Luva River canyon is also home to Harrier hawks, parrots and herons which can be spotted along the journey. Our kayaking trip is broken up with a buffet lunch on a pebbly shore opposite a small waterfall and offers us the chance to take a refreshing dip in the river — for those of us who hadn’t already.

If you enjoy the chance to explore on dry land, the ’Luva River trip also involves a trek to the pristine Wainuta Falls. Leaving the kayaks, life jackets and helmets at the shore, Adre guides us across an area of grassland to the falls, which plunge into a cool pool.

“The best part of this waterfall is that it’s only our groups that come here, so we always get it all to ourselves,” says Adre with a grin. Paddle, take the plunge at the base of the falls, or get up close to the pummelling water for a free head and shoulder massage.

The final part of our day-long trip is a motorised long-boat ride along the river section. In this broad area, we get the best scenery — waterfalls cascading on both sides and huge clumps of bamboo towering more than 20m above us. It’s an image to remember — especially when you’re at the beach or swim-up bar later recounting your tales.

Take Me There

RIVERS FIJI

Tel: +679 345 0147

Jetstar flies direct to Fiji from Sydney, with connections to Melbourne four times a week. JetSaver Light fares from AU$189 one way. Book online at www.Jetstar.com