February 2012

ISLAND WILDERNESS

Tasmania is the perfect place to discover our native animals and colonial history, and more about your kids

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY RACHEL FARNAY JACQUES

After a fleeting year, I booked a one-week road-trip for my young sons and I to explore from Hobart to the east coast, in search of quality time. They were as excited as I about travelling 'overseas' to the breakaway island off Australia's southern coast.

From our luxurious digs at Sullivans Cove Apartments, north of Hobart's docks, we began our adventure at Australia's newest and most ambitious public art gallery MONA, the Museum of Old and New Art. It's a 15-minute drive from Hobart, or catch the 30-minute ferry to view this architectural marvel perched on a peninsula in the Derwent River.

Multi-millionaire David Walsh rotates his 2,200 artworks into a display that is as astounding as it is confounding. The free "Opod" guides our personal route as we descend three levels into dark cavernous halls. There are works that are beautiful, a few that are funny, some that are technical wonders, and many that are shocking yet fascinating: my boys voted Wim Delvoye's "poo machine" their favourite, even though "it smelt disgusting".

Among these contemporary art installations are prehistoric and ancient artifacts. This huge space is complemented by a café (little kids should bring their own food), wine bar, restaurant and villas.

The kids' patience at MONA was rewarded with a trip to Cadbury, the first factory to be built outside Birmingham in 1918. There's no factory tour but the visitor centre does a regular video presentation which includes a goodie bag with free samples. Just try to resist the wall-to-wall selection of discounted chocolate.

Fish Frenzy by the waterfront serves up a delicious menu of the local catch, in cool paper cones — except the mighty seafood chowder, of course. Afterwards, enjoy a wander around the docks; we found moored both the Lady Nelson and the Sea Shepherd.

Early next morning, we make the 45-minute drive south to Kettering to join Bruny Island Cruises, operated by Pennicott Wilderness Journeys. After a ferry and bus ride, we're covered head-to-toe in red ponchos for their award-winning three-hour cruise which provides unparalleled views of Bruny Island's soaring sea cliffs, caves and blowholes, and a thrilling dash between towering columns of dolomite.

But the highlight was drifting past the pods of squid-eating fur seals — so close you can smell their pungent breath. On a good day, you may even see whales, dolphins, albatross and sea eagles.

The next day, we depart Hobart for a 90-minute drive of winding roads, bays and bridges to Tasman Peninsula. Our accommodation is a spacious cabin with views at stunning Stewarts Bay Lodge.

The lodge is situated next door to the infamous Port Arthur Historic Site. It's not an easy undertaking with young boys but as Australia's best-preserved convict settlement, now a World Heritage-listed site, it's a must-see. With 30 historic buildings, including the penitentiary, police station, church, hospital and homes, the area is vast. The tour included in your entry price provides a good overview. Having served as a penal station for 12,700 repeat offenders from all the Australian colonies from 1830 to 1877, the history of hardship and punishment is sobering. But for all the suffering, the detailed narrative explains there's also great beauty here, as the military, their family and free settlers tried to make it feel like home.

Heading north to seaside Swansea, we had lunch at The Ugly Duck Out before arriving at Freycinet Peninsula, home to Freycinet Lodge. Our cosy cabin was nestled within Freycinet National Park, just moments from two beautiful beaches. We spent hours beachcombing the lichen-covered rocks of Honeymoon Bay and being watched by wallabies.

From here we took offfor a morning sea kayaking in and out of the tranquil bays with Freycinet Adventures. Owner Simon Stubbs makes a great guide and his experience with kids meant they too were paddling up a storm.

Emboldened by our kayaking, we scrambled up to Wineglass Bay Lookout (216m), a steep 45-minute hike. Our reward was sensational views of this world-famous bay.

We could have stayed a week but Bicheno beckoned. Our motel accommodation at the Beachfront Bicheno offered fab ocean vistas. Driving north again, we lunched at Iron House Brewery. With six award-winning beers on tap, ocean views and a mighty playroom, it's perfect for parents.

Our final goal was the Bay of Fires — a stretch of giant boulders encrusted in bright red lichen.

Enroute back to Bicheno, we couldn't resist visiting Eureka Farm for their berry fresh homemade ice cream, thick with fruit from their fields. There are take home fruit and ice-cream packs too.

But Bicheno's star attraction is its nightly Penguin Tours. Since becoming a protected nursery, the rookery has grown from 40 penguins to an estimated 600. Down by the beach a gale is blowing, but undeterred the small blue penguins waddle over rocks to their hungry chicks. The guide takes us on a tour of nesting boxes filled with the fluffest chicks.

Our last morning at East Coast Natureworld is every bit as thrilling. Our fantastic guide walks us around the 150ha park introducing Cape Barren geese, letting us pat wombats, feed farm animals and kangaroos, and watch the Tasmanian devils squabble over their steak.

Heading south now, we take the long way back through mountain roads to the picturesque heritage town of Richmond. Here, we stop to admire Australia's oldest stone bridge, built in 1823.

All too soon our trip has come to an end. Every day has been one of adventure and new experiences. With stunning scenery, animals at every turn and friendly locals, this is one holiday we'll never forget.

MY EPIPHANY

Tassie is fun and easy touring for kids. Our trip truly inspired their curiosity and proved they're great travellers, ready for even bigger adventures.