April 2009

It’s Chow Time

Taiwan’s famously hungry TV host Zeng Guo Cheng presents his favourite Taipei eateries

It’s Chow Time

WORDS CINDY SUI
PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL M SHIH

Zeng Guo Cheng, or “Cheng Cheng” as he’s affectionately known in show business circles, not only hosts several popular travel and cooking shows, but is perhaps the best-known foodie in Taiwan.

Having grown up among an immigrant Chinese poplulation, his taste buds were influenced by flavours from all corners of China.

To him, Taiwanese food is not just homegrown, but includes spices, textures and cooking techniques from China, combined with influences from Japan and South Korea. “In Taiwan, because it’s so diverse, you can definitely eat a wide variety of cuisine,” says Zeng.

The 41-year-old has been a TV host for some 20 years, with the last 10 focused on food.“If you want to eat well, don’t just eat at places that are famous,” he advises.

His top 10 Taipei eateries won’t be found in any ordinary tourism brochure, but are rather off the beaten track and often unlisted in the phone book.

Spicy Crab

Specialising in dry, spicy hotpots, this eatery combines Sichuan, Hunan and Beijing cuisine, with flavours from Shanghai and Taiwan. Three main hotpots crown the menu — crab, shrimp and chicken, with the soup for these hotpots added at the end, making this two dishes in one.

Zeng reels off an endless list of favourites here: the Chengdu fried spicy mutton; the Hunan fiery pepper and thousand-year-old eggs; the Sichuan fish cooked in oil and hot peppers; and the Hu Yue Chicken Pot. “The chicken is so tender and flavourful because it’s cooked using a combination of Shanghainese and Cantonese styles of boiling soup.”

Civic Blvd. Sec. 4, No. 129, tel: +886 (2) 2577 6672

YAYA'S Oyster Bar

Zeng considres this the best, or at least second-best oyster restaurant in Taipei. He says it's the décor that gets him going. "It's like a little speciality restaurant in a small town. It's full with just 30 or 40 people."

Angels are hande-painted on the ceilings and walls by the owner and his father. "The chef is very good at grasping the fire of the grill." Other than oysters, Zeng recomends the pork ball pizza - the chef's invention.

Changan East Road. Sec. 1, No. 83, tel: +886 (2) 2568 1532

(Old and New Beef Noodle Soup)

Beef noodle soup is considered Taiwan's signature dish. Locals insist the island's version is the best in the world, because the beef is tender and chuncky and the soup is boiled to perfection.

Zeng says this near-40-year-old restaurant serves the best beef noodle soup in Taiwan, but that the secret is not in the beed. "No matter how good thr noodles are, if the soup is no good, or vice-versa, then the dish is ruined."

Neihu District, Cheng GOng Rd, Sec. 4, No. 204, tel +886 (2) 2791 9439

Chinese Cuisine Banquet

This restaurant is exquisitely decorated and specialises in excellent Jiangsu-Zhejiang cuisine from eastern China.

One of Zeng's favourite dishes is Old Duck Soup. "It's thick and fragrant, It really satisfies your desire for soup and the noodles are delicious,"he says.

"They put green onions into the soup before the noodles, which then competely soak up the taste of the green onions."

Zhongxiao East Rd. Sec. 5, no. 297, tel: +886(2)2528 5000

Shanghai Eastery

Opened by immigrants from Shanghai, this restaurant in Yonghe has been around for decades. It was discovered by Zeng when he lived in the district, which is not a usual haunt for tourists.

He says the excellent Chinese radish cake "has a rich radish taste and creates a wonderful feeling in your mouth". Their famous Shanghainese dish called Yan Dyu Xian (Double Boiled Bamboo Shoots with Salted Pork) make it worth a visit, says Zeng.

Taipei County, YOunghe City, Wenhua Road, Lane 90, No. 14, tel: +886 (2) 2929 4104

Mitsui

Japanese restaurants in Taiwan - a former Japanese colony - serve the most authentic Japanese cuisine outside Japan, says Zeng,.

The Mitsui restaurant on Mingshui Road is unique eacuase it serves up family-style Japanese cuisine and has an attached supermarket that allows customers to buy fresh seafood and other products at wholesale prices.

"You can buy raw food, have it cooked and take it home to eat."

Zhongshan District, Mingshui Rd. No.602, 2F, tel:+886 (2) 2533 8802

Shi-Yang Culture Restaurant

This restaurant might seem out of the way as it's on Taipei's famous Yangmingshan, but a hike up this mountain's scenic trails, or a dip into its many hot spring pools before spoiling yourself at this exquisite, one-of-a-kind restaurant, can be a fabulous finale to a holiday in Taipei.

"When you walk in, it's like a beautiful garden," Zeng says. Dining in this restaurant has been compared to eating inside a Chinese landscape painting.

The place is tastefully decorated with Song-style antique Chinese furniture and sometimes performances of the ancient stringed instrument guqin accompany the meals.

The menu is fixed each day and it's fusion cuisine. Each dish is exquisitely designed and leans towards healthiness. A highlight is the Lotus Chicken Soup. "You can watch the lotus unfolding in the hot soup." The price for the 10-course meal is aorund TW$1,000 (S$45) per person.

Qin Shan Road, Lane 101, No. 160 (on Yangmingshan), tel: +886 (2) 2826 0157

Lieu Family Eastery

If you think you've tasted real Chinese dumplings, think again.

This restaurant makes dumplings from ingredients you don't find in most dumpling places - including fish, which is difficult to use as a filling, but is used very well here, along with other daring ingredients, such as sea cucumber. People who don't eat pork can finally enjoy dumplings.

"Real beifangren (nothern Chinese) work in this restaurant. Its dumplings are the best," Zeng enthuses. What also sets this place apart is the dumpling skin.

"Dumpling skin is very important. When you put it in your mouth, it's got to be tender and fragrant. If you like to eat noodles, you know the right feeling."

There's much more.

"The appetiser, carp braised in scallion, is fantastic. It must be marinated in vinegar and cooked to very high temperatures so the fish bones become soft and edible. The taste is sweet, salt and fragrrant. "

It takes four hours to make, but because it's a cold dish, it's prepared in advance.

And then there's the fresh crab - Zeng's exclamation of "Oh my"says it all.

Da An District, Fuxing South Rd. Sec.1, Lane 219 No. 10, 1st Floor, tel: +886(2) 2721 7377

Kao Li Bang

Not only can you find excellent cuisine originating from all corners of China in Taiwan, you can also find great Korean food. Tha's because many ethnic Chinese Koreans from north-eastern China who were influenced by Korea cuisine, settled in Taiwan after 1949.

"The restaurant's owners are returnees from South Korea so they serve very authentic food,"says Zeng. From the seafood pancake to cold noodles and soul-nourishing ginseng chicken soup, Zeng says, "It's all good".

Da An Rd. Sec.1, Lane 51, No.40, tel: +886 (2) 2772-8649

The Dragon

This chic restaurant in the Sheraton Taipei Hotel is the place to treat yourself at the end of a hardworking business trip. Never mind the lovely décor; for no-nonsense Zeng, it's all about dishes - many of which are the chefs' unique creations.

"The shark's fin chicken soup congee feels really good when it enters your mouth. The chicken soup is completely absorbed by the congee, Zeng says, before pondering whether he should bo promoting shark's fin. "Write it!" he concludes. "It's unforgettale."

But if you want to protect sharks, "the dish can be replaced with abalone," he adds.

"Pratically all appetisers are excellent, including a special order dish called Qiao Qiao Hua ( Whispering)." Guess how it got its name - it's a pig's tongue wrapped in pig's ear, marinated in soy sauce.

Sheraton Taipei Hotel, No.12, Zhongxiao East Rd. Sec 1, tel: 886 (2) 2321 1818

Watch Zeng Guo Chneg's food variety ( Cool Chef) and travel shows (Delicious Food Of Over China) in Taiwan on Channel 30, in Singapore (3-Plus-1) on Channel 8 and on cable TVB8.






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