July 2010

Journey to the centre of the earth

Delve beneath the surface of the Australian outback to discover the unique lava tubes of Undara near Cairns

by Mia Lacy

Photo: Barkers Lava Tube © Undara Experience

About four hours’ drive away from the reef and rainforest surrounding Cairns in tropical North Queensland lies a subterranean wonderland. From our bird’s eye view 300m above the McBride volcanic province, we watch the wildlife and savannah plains beneath us. A flock of black cockatoos circle above a mob of wild brumby horses we have startled into a gallop, while a family of kangaroos stand to attention, staring up at our bright yellow helicopter.

“After the wet is a terrific time to be visiting Undara,” says Skysafari Australia owner/pilot Bradley King. “See how all the waterholes and rivers are full of water after the long summer rains and look how refreshed the landscape is.”

Ahead of us, deep green patches stand out from the brown plains, stretching 160km to the southern horizon. “You’re looking at the longest lava flow on earth from a single volcanic crater in modern times — welcome to Undara!” says King with a huge grin.

The patches come into sharp focus as we skim along the lava flow — these green gullies full of trees are where the roofs of the lava tubes collapsed in, allowing light and plants to fill the cavities created. The story behind the natural phenomenon of the lava tubes is a fascinating one.

About 190,000 years ago, rivers of magma erupted from the Undara Volcano, settling into the low contours of the land. The air cooled the surface of the lava flow, creating a solid crust, while the earth itself cooled the walls and floor forming the tube. Beneath the crust, the molten lava continued to flow through the tubes. The eruption stopped and the lava flowed out the far end of the tubes, leaving many hollow tunnels beneath the surface of the crust.

Over thousands of years, the earth healed the land, and eventually some of the roof crusts collapsed into the tubes below. These spots are the access points for today’s explorers, and were discovered by the Collins family when they settled the region as pioneers 150 years ago.

“My great-great-grandfather Thomas Collins was passionate about the bush.

He cherished the land and lived from it,” says Bram Collins, Undara’s owner and the fifth generation of the family to grow up as custodians of the Undara Lava Tubes.

It was Bram’s father, Gerry Collins, who negotiated with the government to zone about one quarter of the family’s pastoral lease into Undara Volcanic National Park in 1990. “My father’s vision was that the tubes were so unique that everyone should be able to marvel at their majesty, see an outback sunset beneath a million stars and awake to a quiet dawn in the bush,” says Collins.

Undara Lava Lodge, created with minimal impact and with a focus on ecological sustainability, suits the landscape. Beautifully restored, turn-of-the-century railway carriages shaded by tall trees and surrounded by native wildlife make up the high-end accommodation. There’s also a Swags Village with large comfortable tents and the Stockmans Quarters, dormitory-style accommodation suited to large groups. There’s even a caravan park and campground.

But it’s the tubes and the wildlife we’ve come to see and now, on the Wildlife at Sunset two-hour expedition, we are face-to-face with a mob of wallaroos. “Most people think these animals are a cross between a kangaroo and a wallaby, but they’re their own species,” explains our guide Paul Revie.

Standing on the granite outcrop with a 360-degree view of the original Rosella Plains station, our group is struck by the beauty of a dazzling sunset. We sip sparkling wine and taste tropical fruits as the last rays of sun inflame the huge outback sky over our heads.

Revie tells us the names of the birds we can hear. “I’m a zoologist and it’s like heaven on earth for me out here,” he grins. “We’ve recorded 165 species of birds and 20 species of bats within this national park.”

We continue to Barkers Cave, our first lava tube, where it’s now dusk and thousands of micro bats are flying out of the cave mouth in search of dinner. A brightly banded snake devours a hapless bat. “That night tiger’s already caught his!” Revie laughs at the sight.

Back at the Iron Pot Bistro, we turn carnivorous and hungrily devour Undara prime rib steak (Collins’ family produce of course), plus emu and crocodile fillets. The meals are delicious, and we dine listening to applause drifting across from the campfire beside the lodge. Here, Revie has morphed into a bush poet.

The words of Banjo Patterson’s famous “Man from Snowy River” have the crowd enthralled. The bush night is a chorus of crickets as we sleep, soundly cocooned in the safety of our railway carriages.

The next day begins with a hearty cooked breakfast at Ringers Camp as the native birds entertain us. “The pied butcherbirds like bacon and the kookaburras prefer the sausages,” laughs Cathy the cook, as a pair of kookaburras tussle over a sausage.

Then after a brief drive through the bush watched by inquisitive kangaroos and wallabies, we’re standing at the entrance to the Arch Cave, watching the sunlight dance over the marbled walls and ceiling of the collapsed lava tube.

“The temperature here in the caves is 10 degrees cooler than the surface of the plains, and the local Aboriginal community — the Ewamian people — would use this area as a workshop to make their hunting tools,” our guide Paul Green tells us.

Holding the handrails, we follow Green as he guides us with a powerful light deep into the tube. There’s a spiritual feeling when you’re deep inside the cave, and it’s easy to imagine the Ewamian ancestors watching over us.

Cairns Triple Treat

Sample the best of Cairns before or after your Undara adventure.

Cairns Wildlife Dome

Discover this amazing zoo located high on top of the Reef Hotel Casino. Spy parrots, cockatoos, lorikeets, doves and rosellas within the rainforest environment, get up close to wallabies and observe animals such as frogs, turtles, pythons and crocodiles. 35/41 Wharf St, Reef Hotel Casino, tel: +61 (7) 4031 7250

Skyrail/Kuranda Scenic Railway

Embark on the Kuranda Classic Experience tour, which combines the award-winning Kuranda Scenic Railway and Skyrail Rainforest Cableway. The Skyrail takes you above the forest canopy to view World Heritage-listed rainforest. Explore hilltop Kuranda village before departing on the world-famous scenic railway, which stops at Barron Gorge and crosses the impressive Stoney Creek Bridge on its way to Freshwater Station before returning to Cairns Station.

Kuranda Scenic Railway Bunda St, Cairns Railway Station, tel: +61 (7) 4036 9333

Mercure Hotel Harbourside

Right on the Esplanade and an easy walk to the CBD, this is a terrific city hotel within easy reach of attractions. Every room in this four-star hotel has a great view of Trinity Bay and the tropical mountains. 209–217 The Esplanade, tel: +61 (7) 4051 899

Back outside, rainbow lorikeets dart between the gum trees and a towering 500-year-old fig tree marks the entrance to the next cave, Stephenson’s Tube, notable for its uphill lava flow and its resident population of about 25,000 bats. Green points out “lavacicles” — the tube equivalent of small stalactites when a roof overhang cools and drips — and the lava level lines, which are the markings on the tube wall indicating the fluctuating level of flow in the tube.

In an old Aboriginal language, Undara means a “long, long way” and you’d have to go a long, long way to see anything as spectacularly unique as these ancient relics from another age.

Take Me There

Families and couples alike can spend days exploring the Undara Volcanic National Park with the variety of tours and experiences on offer at the lodge.

By road, it’s a four-hour drive on sealed roads from Cairns to Undara. Take the Kuranda highway up from the coast and cross the Atherton Tablelands to Ravenshoe. Follow the Savannah Way (Kennedy Highway) south-west through Innot Hot Springs to Mt Garnet and continue on until you reach the 40 Mile Scrub National Park. After passing through the 40 Mile Scrub National Park follow the Savannah Way West (Gulf Developmental Road) until you arrive at the Undara turn off. It’s then 15km to Undara.

By coach, there’s a two-day outback experience available which includes carriage accommodation, Wildlife at Sunset tour, a two-hour lava tube tour, a three-course dinner in the bistro, lunch and transfers.

By train, the popular ‘Savannahlander’ train travels the original 90-year-old rail line that serviced the pioneering mining towns of Forsayth, Einasleigh and Mt Surprise. March to December, Fridays only.

By helicopter, Skysafari Australia have transfers and packages to the Undara helipad. Their Undara Explorer personalised air tour departs Cairns at 10am and includes a return tropical coastline, mountain and Great Dividing Range scenic flight; two-hour lava tube tour; lunch buffet served in the Iron Pot Bistro; and use of the resort swimming pool. Tel: +61 (7) 4099 3666.

Undara Volcanic Park

Savannah Way, tel: +61 (7) 4097 1900

Jetstar flies direct to Cairns from across Australia, and from Singapore, Osaka and Tokyo. JetSaver Light fares from AU$119 one way. Book online at www.Jetstar.com