July 2011

OVER THE EDGE

Queensland’s Glass House Mountains punctuate a southern section of the Sunshine Coast hinterland, beckoning visitors to climb them

WORDS KARA MURPHY

I’m not sure I can do this.” I’m teetering on a precipice of the 253m-high Mount Ngungun, within metres of its summit. Despite praying for courage, I’m still nervous — after all, half a step backward and my shoe will be resting on just thin air.

My guide Quentin grins at me, holding a blue and orange safety rope and sporting a harness identical to mine. The unattractive, hip-and butt-hugging attire is crucial, connecting us to two cliff - top boulders via a safety system with a baffling assortment of tapes, karabiners, knots and more.

“Sure you can,” he says. “Get as much friction as possible, with your shoes touching the rock. Spread your feet a little further apart.

Then lean back, but not too far... You don’t want to flip upside down!”

Uh, no, I don’t. Remembering our practice session on a more forgiving stretch of trail, I bring my left arm from behind my back out to my side, gingerly loosening my left hand’s grip of another rope, so that a short length slips through the device hovering above my stomach. This helps ease me over the lip of the south-facing 20m-high Nursery Cliff, called such, explains Quentin, because it offers less dizzying options for novice abseilers and climbers than the 40m-high Main Cliff further along the trail.

And I’d best get comfortable tackling this cliff, Quentin says, because the day’s final challenge will involve the loftier one. Gulp.

Thankfully, abseiling is more a matter of nerves than skill — as long as your guide is handling all technical safety matters, of course.

Once over the daunting edge, lowering myself down the craggy face is astonishingly manageable, and all my trepidation disappears. You can attempt to exert too much control, though. Well before reaching the ground, a stinging sensation reveals a raw left knuckle, caused by me cramming my fist into the small of my back to regulate my descent. Next time, I essentially walk backwards down an escarpment; I should try to relax a bit more.

In other circumstances, a visit to the Glass House Mountains, located about 40 minutes’ drive inland from the Sunshine Coast Airport, can be relaxing. These dramatic, craggy rhyolite and trachyte peaks were formed 25 million years ago by volcanic activity. Today, they offer visitors a unique natural environment for recharging one’s batteries.

The Glass House Visitor and Interpretive Centre in Glass House Mountains’ township has maps that highlight the area’s walking tracks. Some tracks, such as the
3.3km Tibrogargan Circuit which hugs the base of 364m-high Mount Tibrogargan, are relatively easy, while other tracks travel steeply up, eventually mesmerising weary bushwalkers with spectacular views of the surrounding peaks and countryside.

Tibrogargan’s summit jaunt is only suitable for experienced rock climbers. However, Mount Ngungun’s steep 2.4km return summit walk is fine for anyone with a moderate level of fitness and plenty of water. (Note: If you’re abseiling or climbing here, bring extra water and snacks. I was surprised at how fatigued I felt when I reached the top).

On Ngungun’s crest, I gobble a banana while Quentin relays the Aboriginal creation legend of these mountains. A long time ago, a family lived by the sea. The father was named Tibrogargan, the mother, Beerwah, and the eldest child, Coonowrin. When Tibrogargan noticed the seas

rising, he yelled to Coonowrin to help his pregnant mother and younger siblings reach higher ground. When Tibrogargan turned around to see how Coonowrin was faring, he saw him running away, trying to save his own life. Angry, Tibrogargan chased Coonowrin and struck him, dislocating his neck. Coonowrin (which means Crookneck) was never able to straighten it. Today, Coonowrin holds his head in shame, while Tibrogargan sits with his back to his son, gazing out to sea.

Tibrogargan, located almost directly south, may still be grumpy, but with splendid views and the legend’s other main characters (to our west, spire-like 377m-high Mount Coonowrin and behind it, the pyramid form of 556m-high Mount Beerwah), we have no cause to be.

Mount Ngungun isn’t the only one of the Glass House Mountains frequented by roped-sports aficionados. Tibrogargan also tempts climbers with its lengthy, multi-pitch routes, although climbing here is “challenging”.

Quentin’s employer, Pinnacle Sports, regularly offers guided abseiling and climbing sessions on Ngungun, and guided climbing on Tibrogargan. Today’s session is an introduction to the two sports: suitable for anyone over eight years of age, of average fitness.

Thanks to the invigorating vistas and repeated challenges, the morning flies, and with two abseils down the Nursery Cliff and one climb up it, we’re ready

for our final descent. Rigging a safety system above the Main Cliff , Quentin admits he gets nervous too when backing over this one. Securely tethered to the cliff -top anchors, I ease myself onto the cliff’s edge, without looking down. A tiny frog on a rock distracts me and suddenly, the worst is over. I’ve covered several metres when I crook my neck, taking the opportunity to gaze out over the sea of trees below and contemplate this rare perspective on the wealth of rock before me. Savouring each moment of the remaining journey, the cracks in my face rapidly become stuck in a smile.

MY EPIPHANY

Thanks to this abseiling adventure, I’ve discovered I’m braver than I thought. I’m also more willing to take risks because, when you trust the people sharing your experience and yourself, the thrill of stepping over the edge is worth it.