February 2012

PAST PENANG

If you want to see the Penang of yesteryear, head to Balik Pulau

WORDS HELEN ONG
PHOTOGRAPHY KT GOH

Literally meaning 'the back of the island' in Malay (the Chinese call it 'the island behind the hills'), Balik Pulau comprises some 15 hamlets which stretch from the north-western tip of Penang island, skirt past the touristy area of Teluk Bahang and end in the south-western corner of Teluk Kumbar. The area covers practically half the island.

It was once dismissed as the boondocks, but in the wake of George Town's receiving UNESCO heritage status, more tourists are discovering that Penang has more than just old buildings and food to offer — it also has back-to-nature eco retreats of which Balik Pulau is a great example.

The town centre of Kongsi, which means 'to share' in Malay, is a thriving little community with its own banks, schools and shops. The new market and hawker centre in Jalan Tun Sardon on the outskirts of town is also the site of the Sunday morning Pasar Tani, a farmer's market which sells local produce and fish.

There are many things to see and do, many of them agricultural, and the area offers all that you could want from a village holiday destination: miles of serene paddy fields, broken only by the odd group of swaying coconut palms piercing the neat green squares; durian and nutmeg farms; clean, deserted beaches with traditional fishing villages; homestays; seafood restaurants; and Penang's famous sour and spicy assam laksa.

As you approach — either from George Town or the more scenic route via Teluk Bahang — you will pass small rustic villages with old Malay wooden houses, some on stilts, which date back decades or even longer.

Children still play games like gasing (top spinning) and football on the lawn in front of their house — a rare sight in these days of iPads and Wii. However, in the words of the famous Bob Dylan song, the times they are a-changing. Local businessman Ismail Johar reminisces that as a child, he and his friends would cycle up and down the main streets. "It was perfectly safe to do so," he says, "as there were hardly any cars around then." Traﬃc, like everywhere else, is on the increase here, although it is still relatively quiet, except in town.

Why would anyone come all the way to this backwater? "This is still a wonderful way to experience village life in Malaysia," says Ismail. "You can get away from the busy city, and enjoy a leisurely time here seeing things done the way they have been for decades."

The Chop Kim Hoa Belacan Factory in Pulau Betong, is where the Lo brothers still produce salted, fermented shrimp paste the way their father used to 50 years ago, albeit with machines nowadays. The aromatic dark brown chunks, a vital ingredient in so much of the local cooking, are laid out to dry in the sun every day, and laboriously turned and crumbled by hand several times daily to ensure even drying — this can take up to four months.

Further up the road towards the tiny village of Pulau Betong, you can see fishing boats chugging into the jetty, bringing in the day's catch at about noon. Much of it is the local mackerel, kembong, which would explain why the area is famous for its Penang assam laksa — the two vital ingredients which go towards making this pungent, spicy and sour soup, fish and belacan, are abundantly available here.

As you head towards the hills on the winding road that eventually takes you round the island to Teluk Bahang, you'll find Lim's Nutmeg Farm, which has been cultivating the spice for last 60-plus years. The owner will show you around. You'll be able to try some sweet nutmeg drinks and also purchase products made in-house from this humble spice.

Of course, the pungent durians are a must-try if you are there during the season (between June and August). Balik Pulau durians are much sought after for their variety and delicious flesh. Other cottage industries that are still being carried out here are the making of bedak sejuk (cooling rice powder), a famed traditional local beauty product made from fermented rice and perfumed by dried pandan leaves and jasmine flowers.

Balik Pulau still has no hotels, although this will probably change before long. However, homestays are popular with visitors who want to experience life with a local family as it is lived in a typical Malaysian village.

THINGS TO DO

Rent a bike: if you really want to experience life like the locals, then this is one of the best ways. Contact Eddie Chew (+6016 452 2100) of Explore Balik Pulau; MYR10/hour or MYR25/ day. Free daily guided tour at 4.30pm. Visit a durian plantation (in season); visit the nutmeg farm; visit the belacan factory; visit an organic farm; visit a fishing village; splash on the sandy beaches

FOODIE-ALERT!

Apart from Penang's famous fruit, there are some popular local must-eats which have become synonymous with this part of the island.

Assam laksa
No visit to Balik Pulau is complete without a bowl of laksa. It is sold from homes with large signs indicating its availability and also from various stalls in town, some of which have been in existence for generations. Try John and Anne Martin's, who bought over the popular stall at No 67 Jalan Besar, or Ah Teong's, whose family has been selling it at the Chuan Heong Coffee Shop (opposite the old market) since 1968.

Seafood
There are many outlets, including Ah Seng's at the 3+1 Kopitiam in Jalan Sungai Pinang, which does a famous lemongrass steamed fish. Some places, like Bukit Genting Hill Leisure Park & Resort (+60 4 6299 801) are located, perversely, on hill tops so ensure you enjoy the view — sunset is superb — as well as the food.

Local snacks
These are available from sundry shops in town and the market. Try deep-fried prawn crackers and pickled fruits.